I haven’t had time to sew or post lately- graduate school & life got in the way. However, I am happy that I am past the hardest bits of this jacket. I finished pad-stitching the collar and lapel. My pad-stitching became better & more consistent toward the end of the process. It was annoying and slow at first but as I forged on, it became somewhat relaxing.
Pad-stitched and Taped Jacket Pieces
Pad-stitched undercollar. Taped shoulder & roll-line.
I applied twill tape to the lapel, roll-line and side front. I then fell-stitched the twill tape to the jacket. I also taped the shoulder seam, back neckline and roll-line of the undercollar.
I then hand-sewed the undercollar to the jacket back by fell-stitching.
Attaching undercollar
This is now the point when the welt pockets and bound button-holes should be installed (if you want them). Yikes! I was nervous about this and did at least three test samples before tackling the real thing. Luckily, they turned out OK.
I turned the welts on the bias so I wouldn’t have to match the herringbone pattern. What a great trick! In addition, the bound button-holes were more like corded button-holes. I used a 3/16″ cord to make the button-hole lips. Here is my finished welt and bound button-holes:
Welt Pockets & Corded Button-holes
Whew! I am hoping it is all downhill construction-wise from here!
dashingmarmot 
Ooh this is coming together very well! I’m excited about the final product and how it looks when worn XD
Thanks for the comment! It is looking good so far but all the hand stitching is killing me!
Hi Javie
I am sewing a jacket not unlike yours. The pattern calls for fell stitch as you have done on the roll-line. I have only done felling in a run and fell seam. How do you make the fell stitch not show on the outside but still secure the tape?
Regards
Pedagogue
Hi Pedagogue
Did you pad-stitch hair canvas or did you use fusible interfacing on the collars and lapel? If you used hair canvas, you should be able to fell-stitch the twill tape to the canvas and not to the fashion fabric. If you used fusible interfacing there is another cheater tip you can use. I have also used fusible tailors tape with some success. The tape is made by HTC and is called “Fusible Tailor’s Tape, Straight Cut”. It is easier to use then fell-stitching twill-you just iron it on. I’ll post my other project that uses this technique in a few weeks after all my exams. Hope that helps!
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